Brush Sushi hits its 10-year mark in Buckhead this year, and the restaurant isn't leaning on its omakase reputation. Married chefs Jason Liang and ChingYao Wang run O by Brush, the Michelin-starred omakase counter, and a broader menu that now stretches from lunch through dinner, with brunch in the mix.
The lunch prix fixe ($45) is the move for a daytime visit. It's a pick-your-own three-course experience that includes the bara chirashi box of diced fresh fish and tamago with cucumber and soy. The hay-smoked miso duck breast ($58) is savory and tender, served with a duck fat scallion pancake and sweet potato chips. For something reliably excellent, order any cut from the dry-aging program. The chef's selection of nigiri or sashimi ($36 to $60 for six pieces) shows how aging deepens flavor with an almost funky edge.
Wang's pastry chops aren't decorative. The croissant ($8) is heavily laminated and warm inside. Add the truffle and mushroom whipped cream with chives and Gruyere (plus $12). Sake flights pair well with the dry-aged fish. The Grain flight ($45) explores rice varieties, and the Compass flight ($55) moves from sparkling to aged pours.
