Koshu Club has opened in Buckhead from Chef J. Trent Harris, the James Beard Award finalist behind Michelin-starred Mujō, and early reviews suggest it is already a serious player in the neighborhood's dining scene. The restaurant comes from Castellucci Hospitality Group, also known for Cooks & Soldiers and Iberian Pig.
Where Mujō is hushed and ceremonial, Koshu leans sultry and social, according to a dining report from Eater Atlanta. A glowing bar anchors the dimly lit dining room, while a carefully tuned soundtrack adds energy without overwhelming conversation. Even in its first week, the restaurant feels settled and confident.
The 4-ounce Kagoshima A5 wagyu steak ($90) is cooked rare and served with a choice of sauces worth sampling. The daidai ponzu, bright with sweet citrus and acid, cuts through the richness of the beef. The nasu agebitashi ($16) is a sleeper hit of Japanese eggplant steeped in soy-dashi broth, silken and deeply savory. The otoro aburi ($35) layers fatty tuna with crisp vegetables and kimijoyu, an egg yolk-based sauce, with fresh wasabi on the side.
The yamitsuki cabbage ($16), glossed in sesame oil and garlic, delivers a straightforward umami hit. Rounds of caramelized sweet potato fondant ($16) come bathed in a tart sauce that reads both familiar and surprising.
For Buckhead, Koshu is the latest in a steady wave of serious openings that have shifted the neighborhood's dining reputation beyond steakhouses and hotel lounges. Castellucci's portfolio now gives Buckhead two high-end Japanese options within walking distance of each other.
